So we will skip right to the part where we talk about what the hell it does in so-so many cosmetic products. It's a commonsynthetic antioxidant that's used as a preservative. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". Just like other similar fragrance ingredients (like linalool and limonene) geraniol also oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. It's also atexturizer and thickener for oil-in-water emulsions. This was the year when using dried lavender flowers in pillows, wardrobes, and elsewhere became fashionable in Japan, so it seems that increased exposure to lavenderresults in increased risk of sensitivity. The oil coming from the seeds of the yellow flowered safflower plant. Theessential oil coming from the flowers of Rose Geranium. It's a sweet tasting sugar substitute that helps your skin to hold onto water when used in cosmetic products. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. A so-calledfatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). It might be irritating, Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Before we list out the good and the not so good, here isan interesting thing. The manufacturer did several studies to prove thatArgireline really works and it does (just not as well as Botox). Bergamot Fruit Oil;Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Rose Geranium Flower Essential Oil;Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavender Essential Oil;Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Mandarin Orange Oil, Tangor Oil;Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Sweet Orange Peel Oil, Citrus Sinensis Oil;Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Damask Rose Flower Oil;Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, LA, omega-6 fatty acid, 18:2 cis-9,12, Form of Vitamin F. Thanks. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. Its pretty much the current IT-preservative. Sodium hydroxide in itselfis a potent skin irritant, but once it's reacted (as it is usually in skin care products, like exfoliants) it is totallyharmless. Makes the skin nice and smooth, and not shiny or heavy. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. Here is a brown algae extract (the most common type, about 59% of macroalgae), also just called Algae Extract on the product label that is simply claimed to be a free radical scavenger, aka antioxidant. If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. Good old water, aka H2O. A multi-functional skincare superstar that has clinically proven anti-aging, skin lightening, anti-inflammatory and barrier repair properties. caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thickliquid. Can you guess what? Might be helpful for dark circles, puffy eyes, as well as cellulite and hair loss. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed It's a nice one to spot on the ingredient list pretty muchfor any skin type. (The main components of the flower essential oil are linalyl acetate and linalool [around 80% the two together] while it is 1,8-Cineole [around 65%] in the essential oil of the leaves.). :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products, Origins - Plantscription Retinol Night Moisturizer with Alpine Flower, Murad - Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream, Garnier Green Labs - Retinol-Berry Super Smoothing Night Serum Cream, Geologie - Gentle 0.05% Retinol Night Cream, Replenix - Replenix All-Trans-Retinol Enriched Eye Repair, Drunk Elephant - A-Passioni Retinol Cream Midi-Sized, L'Oral Paris - Retinol and Niacinamide Night Cream Revitalift Laser Pressed Cream, Plantscription Retinol Night Moisturizer with Alpine Flower, "Flower of Youth thrives in extreme environments & helps support skins youthful appearance. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. It's an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. A kind of polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) thathelps to create beautiful gel-like textures. In general, the main component of citrus peel oils is limonene(83-97% for sweet orangepeel), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. As cosmetic chemistColins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". Anyhow, the point is this;there are tons of different types of Algae Extracts out there. A fatty alcohol (the non-drying type) that is used to increase the viscosity of the formula and stabilize emulsions. Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin. Theessential oilcoming from the fruit (probably the rind) of thebergamot orange. Lemon peel contains a medium amountof them, more than sweet orangebut less than bergamot. Research shows that problem skin haslower levels of linoleic acid (and higher levels of oleic acid) than normal skin. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. And in the skin. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. Potential allergen and can be irritating, An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation, A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat, A fragrance with a lemon scent. It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesizeit and has to take it from food. It works over a wide pH range and is used between 0.5-1.2%. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. It's also atexturizer and thickener for oil-in-water emulsions. It is especially popular in sunscreens as it can boost SPF protection and increase the water-resistance of the formula. Super common little helper ingredient thathelps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. Theessential oilcoming from the fruit (probably the rind) of thebergamot orange. Pure Vitamin C. A skincare superstar that is clinically proven to boost collagen production (in 5-20% concentration), fade hyperpigmentation and boost UV protection under sunscreen. There is some controversy around BHT. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin, Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). The essential oil coming from the rind of the orange. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It is very common in gel-type formulas that also contain an oil-phase as well as in cleansers as it also works with most cleansing agents (unlike a lot of other thickeners). But you know, the proof is in the pudding. If that was not enough, we have one more thing to report about LA. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations, Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations, An emollient that helps create a nice silky finish on the skin, A preservative. As for cosmetics, the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) concluded that the amount of BHT used in cosmetic products is low (usually around 0.01-0.1%), it does notpenetrate skin far enough to be absorbed into the bloodstream and it is safeto use in cosmetics. It gives products a good skin feel and does not make the formula tacky or sticky. Though its long name does not reveal it, this polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits or monomers) is a relative to the super common, water-loving thickener, Carbomer. The following ingredients in this product do the job: In addition, this product contains hydroxyethyl urea, niacinamide. First, let us start with the pros: it has a lovely scent, so no wonder that it is popular as a fragrance ingredientin natural products wanting to be free from synthetic fragrances but still wanting to smell nice. Its in our products to make it smell nice. We will ask you to log in & agree to our community guidelines. No wonder, it is a very popular and common ingredient. less tight and nicer to the touch. A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicelytogether. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture, Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin, A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. An error has occurred. A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives. No wonder its popular. Used as skin- and hair conditioner and skin protectant. In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning" by our cells) andstimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. Its a solid white stuff thats very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. The essential oil coming from the rind of the lemon that we make (or should make) lemonade from. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. Also, we have to agree with TruthInAging, that it's not a collagen builder and not a preventer of structural aging (think vitamin C, AHAs or retinol); it's just a quick fix. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. it In general, the main component of citrus peel oils is limonene (77-86% for mandarin peel), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. The first type is called humectants: these ingredients help attract water. A well-known issue with bergamot oil (apart from the fragrance allergens) is that it contains phototoxiccompounds calledfuranocoumarins, but more and more commonlyfuranocoumarin-free versions are used in cosmetic products. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. It is an awesome natural moisturizing factor, aka NMF. In general, there are two problems with citrus peel oils: first, they are essentially the fragrant component, limonene in disguise (they are about 85-98% limonene). Identification and Quantification of Oxidation Products and Effect on Skin Sensitization, Ethnopharmacological Properties and Medicinal Uses of Litsea cubeba, Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts, Preventive and Therapeutic Role of Functional Ingredients of Barley Grass for Chronic Diseases in Human Beings, Biological Evaluation of Four Selected African Medicinal Plants for Their Trypanocidal Properties, Mode of action, and Chemical Compounds, Bacteriostatic and Bactericidal effects of ethyl acetate root bark extract of Terminalia avicennioides on Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, Effect of green Coffea arabica L. seed oil on extracellular matrix components and water-channel expression in in vitro and ex vivo human skin models, Marine Bioactive Compounds and Their Health Benefits: A Review, Antioxidant Capacity and Lipophilic Content of Seaweeds Collected from the Qingdao Coastline, Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging, Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care. It has nice antioxidant properties and can improve the microcirculation. The sodium salt form of PCA is an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. A well-known thing about Caffeine isthat it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. within deeper layers of the skin. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. Second, they containthe problematic compounds called furanocoumarins that makethem mildly phototoxic. Other than that, citrus peelalso contains the problematic compoundcalled furanocoumarin that makes them mildly phototoxic. Orange peel contains less of it than some other citruses (like bergamot or lime), but still, be carefulwith it especially if it is in a product for daytime use. Its not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. As a super well-known stimulant from coffee, tea and plenty of other soft drinks,Caffeine needs no introduction. A well-known issue with bergamot oil (apart from the fragrance allergens) is that it contains phototoxic. It might also be useful for acne-prone skin as it normalizes keratinization. A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. The essential oil coming from the rind of the lemon. The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. A white to beige powder that is the goldenstandard emulsifier for emulsions (oil+water mixtures) that are difficult to stabilize. Out of the 95 compounds, the major ones are citronellol and geraniol,fragrant components that might irritate sensitive skin. Another thing Caffeine is used for in body care products is its anti-cellulite effects. You can probably guess that this means rose essential oil is expensive. very very expensive. Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that "the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." This product also contains ingredients called occlusives. Avoid if you are sensitive to gluten, A tree bark extract that has antibacterial properties and might have an anti-oxidant effect. Last, but not least, we have to write about caffeine and hair growth. Its an ingredient whose safety hasnt been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). The oil content in rose is very, very low so distilling rose essential oil requires huge amounts of rose flowers. According to manufacturer's data,Hydroxyethyl Urea has a similar moisturizing ability to glycerin (measured at 5%), but it feels nicer on the skin as it is non-sticky and non-tacky and gives a lubricous and moist feeling to theskin. A double-blind study using a 2.5% LA gel for 4 weeks found a 25% reduction in the size ofmicrocomedones,the tiny blocked pores that can later lead to acne. It's a popular duo. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are"emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. A derivative of Urea, that works as astrong moisturizer and humectantmeaning that it helps the skin to cling onto waterand thus tomake it hydrated and elastic. This one is the so-called esterified version. Helps oil and water mix together, The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Its a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type andeasy to formulate with. According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, its also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. A type of sugar that haswater-bindingproperties and helps to keep your skinhydrated. It's acommon top notein perfumes and contains (among others)fragrant compoundslimonene (37%),linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8%). Also used for scar treatment. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. The thing in the pee that is also a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) with mild keratolytic and strong skin moisturizing superpowers. The most probable scenario for the Alge Extract is that it works as a moisturizer and emollient and it mighthave some additional anti-aging properties. A common fragrance ingredient that smells like rose and can be found in rose oil. ANOGEISSUS. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling. Overall, it makes us sad to write bad things about such a lovely plant, but when it comes to skincare, you will be better off without lavender. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. Plantscription Retinol Night Moisturizer With Alpine Flower. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes, An excellent emollient. Inhaled volatile compounds seemto have a soothing effect on the central nervous system and studies have shown that lavender aromatherapy canimprove patient's anxiety and experience in hospitals. BGs main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it mighteven be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. In general algae extracts serve as moisturizing, emollient and thickening agents, and many of them also have additional anti-aging properties. NMFs are important components that help the skin to hold onto water and keep it plump, elastic and hydrated. It's claimed to have great skin compatibility, penetrates easily, does not feel tacky or heavy on the skin and does not leave a greasy shine. Orange mandarin peel contains less from it than some other citruses (likebergamotor lime), but still, be carefulwith it especially if it's in a product for daytime use. Its a common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon and has a bittersweet taste. The basis for this claim is that it targets the same wrinkle forming mechanism (wrinkles caused by facial muscle movement) as Botox, but the way it works is very different. Contains fragrant components that might irritate sensitive skin. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea, retinol. A common helper ingredient that stabilizes emulsions and helps to thicken up products. It can be naturally found in geranium oil (about 30%) or rose oil (about 25%). HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. It's the acronym for Butylated Hydroxy Toluene. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. It isexcellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, likeseborrhea or fungal acne. It's often paired with glyceryl stearate- the twotogether forma super effective emulsifier duo that's salt and acid tolerant and works over a wide pH range. It is a small, water-loving molecule with pretty good skin penetration abilties. Can lead to photosensitivity, An essential oil. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. It does complywith the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decodehere :)), but there are about20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. Typically used at 1% or less in most formulations. A Spanish University also did some research and found thatArgireline increased the level of skin moisturization and decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles "significantly". Be carefulwith it especially if it is in a product for daytime use. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines.
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